From Bruce Davison, Kitchen Gardens of Westchester

If you want a more productive garden with fewer pest problems, start with one of the simplest organic tools available: companion planting.

Companion planting is the practice of placing certain plants near each other so they help one another—by confusing pests, attracting beneficial insects, improving pollination, shading soil, or even supporting growth habits. It’s not magic, and it’s not a guarantee. But when it’s baked into the garden layout from the beginning, it can dramatically reduce pressure from common garden pests—without spraying your food.

The easiest garden isn’t the one you treat the most. It’s the one you design to work with nature.

Why companion planting works (and why it feels “easier”)

Most vegetable pests find their host plants by scent and sight. When you grow long rows of the same crop—like a block of kale or a bed full of tomatoes—you’re basically putting up a billboard that says: “Free buffet.”

Companion planting helps by:

• Masking scent so pests have a harder time locating their favorite plant

• Repelling or disrupting pests with aromatic herbs and alliums

• Attracting beneficial insects (ladybugs, lacewings, hoverflies, parasitic wasps) that feed on pests

• Improving pollination by bringing in bees and other pollinators

• Supporting healthier growth through better spacing and microclimates

It’s a simple shift in mindset: you’re not just planting vegetables—you’re building a small, balanced ecosystem.

The “good neighbors” guide: reliable companion pairings

Here are practical combinations that work well in kitchen gardens across Westchester and Lower Connecticut—especially when you want fewer sprays and less hand-to-hand combat with insects.

1) Tomatoes + basil (and a few friends)

Why it works: Basil’s strong aroma can help confuse pests, and flowers can attract beneficial insects later in the season.
Add on:

• Marigolds nearby for pollinators and general garden diversity

• Nasturtiums as a “trap crop” (aphids often go there first)

Avoid: Planting tomatoes right next to brassicas (kale, cabbage, broccoli) if you can help it—different needs and can complicate spacing and airflow.

2) Brassicas (kale, broccoli, cabbage) + dill or cilantro (let them flower)

Why it works: Brassicas attract cabbage moths and aphids. Dill and cilantro flowers bring in beneficial insects that help control those pests naturally.

Pro move: Plant a few herbs and let some bolt and flower. Flowering herbs are beneficial-insect magnets.

3) Cucumbers + nasturtiums

Why it works: Nasturtiums can draw aphids away from cucumbers and also bring in pollinators. They’re easy, pretty, and useful.

Bonus: Nasturtium leaves and flowers are edible—peppery and great in salads.

4) Carrots + onions (or leeks/scallions)

Why it works: This classic pairing is all about scent confusion. Alliums can help disrupt pests that target carrots, and carrots don’t compete heavily with onions below ground.

Design tip: Alternate short rows or “patches” rather than planting each in a solid block.

5) Beans + cucumbers (with space and sun)

Why it works: Beans can support soil health, and mixed planting helps break up pest patterns.

Important: Don’t crowd. Good airflow is still one of the best “pest controls” you have.